Athens is a city that needs no introduction. The birthplace of western philosophy, science and learning, the city has seen its share of trials and tribulations. Conquered and re-conquered by successive empires over the past 2000 years, it’s almost surprising that the majestic ruins still stand guard over the Greek capital. But despite all of the hardship, the city and its people have endured. Through controversial scheduling delays, Athens managed to pull off a successful Summer Olympic Games in 2004 -- the otherwise chaotic metropolis improved infrastructure for the thousands that poured in to enjoy the events in the ancient home of the games. The Concierge takes a look at the new transit system, airport and life in the city of Athena.

10 First Time Experiences:

Acropolis: The Acropolis is the most famous of all of Greece’s many great ancient sites. It’s also one of the more difficult to access. The walk up to the top of the famous hill offers great views of the city, but may be a bit of a challenge for some, especially in the mid-summer heat. There’s also little or no shade once you get up there, but the ruins themselves will probably make you forget all of that. Be sure to look for the Erechtheion, it has a series of sculpted maiden pillars that are considered some of the most important in antiquity. The Concierge also found it interesting that on plaques around the complex the Greek government makes direct appeals to the British Museum and other museums across Europe for a return of the Elgin Marbles, the façade of the Parthenon that was pilfered in colonial times. The British have so far refused to return the marbles and say they have absolutely no intention of doing so in the future.

Theatre of Dionysos: The theatre almost impressed The Concierge more than the Acropolis itself. It has been remarkably well-preserved and really offers a glimpse of life in ancient Athens. The Concierge could virtually picture the throngs of Athenians watching plays in the stone bleachers. The theatre is located on the side of the Acropolis, making it easy to photograph and access.

Lykavittos Hill: Just a great spot to catch a panoramic view of the city. Of course, the view all depends on pollution levels—an unfortunate part of life in this crowded city.

First Cemetery: The First Cemetery may not be the liveliest stop on your Athenian trip, but it is a beautiful bit of greenery in the heart of the city. Some of the tomb sculpture is incredible and seems more like an open-air art gallery than a cemetery.

Benaki Museum: The museum has a fine collection of European and Asian works, as well as Bronze Age collections from Mycenae and Thessaly. One of the highlights for The Concierge was the Greek regional clothing and woodwork exhibit from Asia Minor and Mesopotamia.

Ancient Agora: The Agora (market) was the district where philosophers such as Socrates spread their message and where St. Paul tried to win converts to Christianity. Look for the Temple of Hephaestus (449 BC) and the foundations of the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, one of the sites where Socrates spoke to his followers. The Agora is a great spot for those interested in ancient history, but take it from The Concierge, taking a guided tour is the best way to fully understand the historical significance of the area.

National Gardens: The gardens are a nice spot to spend an afternoon and find some reprieve from the hot sun. The flora and fauna are gorgeous and nice ornamental ponds make for a relaxing day away from the hustle and bustle of the city core.

National Archaeological Museum: This is the most extensive collection of Greek antiquities in the world and is really worth at least a full day’s visit. The real highlights are the Hall of Mycenaean Antiquities with its gold artifacts and the Mask of Agamemnon. The Concierge recommends splitting your visit over a couple of days to appreciate and absorb the entire collection.

Flea Market: If you want to see how the locals shop, haggle and argue over prices, this is the place to do it. Sunday morning is a good time to visit and be prepared to see absolutely everything under the sun for sale. Make sure you bargain for anything that you buy. It’s customary and a lot of fun once you get a handle for the system.

Best Buys

Athens has some great shopping from tourist souvenir shops to very high-end clothing boutiques. The tourist-frequented shopping areas include Plaka and Monastiraki which are both situated at the base of the Acropolis. This is the oldest part of the city and that becomes obvious walking the narrow streets. The Concierge loved Monastiraki’s flea market. Between Omonia and Syntagama Squares you’ll also find some sizeable shopping districts with every kind of good imaginable. In Glyfada, about 20 minutes outside of the main city core, higher-end stores are filled with locals darting in and out of the hot Athenian sun. But it’s around Kifissia that you can find exclusive designer shops and goods that will set you back a fair number of Euros.

Prime Dishes 

This is probably The Concierge’s favourite aspect of any Greek visit—the food. As a primer, remember that eating in Greece is an event more than a necessary break in the day. Greeks will take three hours for a meal, sit down, talk about the news, people watch—and they almost never eat alone. The concept of fast-food simply doesn’t exist here (unless you break The Concierge’s cardinal rule of travel and visit McDonald’s). Athens is laden with restaurants ranging in price from everyday tavernas to posh five-star dining. The tavernas are a good bet because they offer hearty food for low prices. Of course, for a quick snack, The Concierge fell in love with the local burger—gyros on a pita. Unlike in North America, however, pitas come with french fries right inside the pita.

For more on restaurants in Athens, go to www.athensguide.com

En Route

Athens has a very efficient new subway system completed just in time for the 2004 Olympics. Trains generally run on time and stations are relatively clean. In fact, some stations feature ancient ruins in their passage ways that could undoubtedly rival some of the best Greek collections in other countries—and that’s just in the subway! The airport is also brand new and The Concierge found that it, too, was quite efficient. The information desks were a bit slow, but over time those kinks should be ironed out. Getting to downtown from the airport is much easier now than ever before. New highways and a shuttle bus system mean the trip only takes about 40-50 minutes, depending on traffic.

For those getting around the city, cabs are everywhere and are relatively cheap. Remember to make sure that you either negotiate your fare before setting out or that the cab is metered. Athenian cabbies are notorious for arguing over fares.

If you plan to walk around the city, just remember that Athens is incredibly humid and hot and a bottle of water can help you avoid dehydration.

For anyone needing a ferry to the islands, Athens’ port is at Piraeus, about 40 minutes or less from the city centre. Bus service to the port is very good and runs at all hours.

After Hours Retreats

The Concierge was highly impressed by the nightlife in Athens and the blend of world-class clubs and nightspots which offer traditional music. That’s a bit of a change from most places, and a refreshing one at that. Along Kifissia Avenue and in the Glyfada district are where you’ll find the bulk of Athens’ best clubs. Just keep in mind, however, that club scenes change by the month and it’s always better to ask a local about the hottest nightspots when you visit.