WUZHEN, CHINA — It was in the early morning light when we arrived in this ancient water town nicknamed the “Venice of China” and my guide Song encouraged me to pick up the pace so we could see all the attractions “before the tourist busses arrive.”
After the guide instructed our driver where he was to meet us later in the day, we set out to explore what Song described as “the most beautiful of the 10 water towns” located in Zhejiang Province, which borders Shanghai.
“Imagine,” said Song, as we made our way to the stone footpaths that run along the town’s numerous canals, “Italy only has one Venice, but we (China) have 10.”
Of course — China produces more of everything, I thought to myself.
The 10 historic water towns Song was referring to are located about 120km outside Shanghai in a triangle that connects China’s largest city with Suzhou — it, too, has many canals — and fabled Hangzhou, often referred to as “heaven on Earth,” by the Chinese because of its enchanting West Lake district.

Above: An army of tourists take over the water towns during China's peak holiday periods.

Sleepy Wuzhen was just beginning to awake from its overnight slumber when we arrived at the edge of the town’s largest canal, the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, which dates back to 468 BC. It was built to connect this prosperous province with the capital before the arrival of trains and took over 1,000 years to complete.
The smell of bread baking in ancient ovens filled the air and labourers rushed passed us carrying large packages strung between two bamboo poles.
Tiny shopkeepers were busy removing the long, protective wooden planks from the front of their shop entrances.
I saw women squatting on steps leading to the canal’s edge hand-washing clothes, just like their ancestors centuries ago.
Some old men were standing on one of the many stone bridges that arch across the main canal tossing bread into the koi-filled water, causing a colourful ruckus.
The small fleet of sampans that patrol the canals were piled high in the morning light with boxes destined for local shops. Later in the day, those same boats would be turned into gondolas and used to carry the many tourists — 7 million in 2019 alone — who come to Wuzhen each year. Instead of songs, though, Wuzhen’s gondoliers entertain their passengers with stories of the town’s 1,300-year-history.
I watched in amazement as a trained cormorant dove into the murky canal like an arrow and resurfaced a few seconds later with a large fish clutched in its beak. This ancient form of fishing is a real crowd pleaser with the tourists.
As we walked, Song drew my attention to buildings where some of town’s legendary figures once lived.

Above: Deliveries and family chores, like clothes washing, are done in the wee hours before the tourists arrive.

“In this one,” said Song, pointing to a small building with an ornate wooden door, “ is where Mao Dun (a revered revolutionary writer) once lived, and over there is the former home of Mu Xin (a contemporary poet, calligrapher and painter).” Both buildings have been turned into museums where their works are now admired by modern-day visitors.
Another big attraction in Wuzhen is the “bridge within a bridge” — a visual anomaly where the arches of two of the town’s ancient bridges, the Tongji and Renji, appear to blend together as one when you look at either from a certain angle.
By the time the morning sun rose high into the sky, Wuzhen’s canal-side restaurants were packed, the sampans were filled with camera-toting tourists and the bridges were crowded with people taking lots of selfies.
“It’s time to go to our next water town,” says Song. “We have many to choose from.”
The area’s other water towns can’t compete with Wuzhen for charm and beauty, but they are usually less crowded. And each one has its own unique story to share. All charge a small entrance fee, usually $10 (Cdn), but you’ll emerge with a wealth of knowledge about ancient China.
Here’s what you’ll find in …

Above: The many stone bridges that arch over the canals date back thousands of years.

Zhouzhuang

Zhouzhuang gained fame during the Yuan Dynasty when a legendary rich man (Shenyou) moved there and built a business empire, which accounts for the many striking buildings you’ll see amassed along the town’s four main canals.
Reputed to be one of the 10 most beautiful towns in China, Zhouzhuang is home to just 800 permanent residents but its population swells to 10 times that number during China’s peak tourist and holiday seasons. The main attractions here are the 14 beautiful stone bridges that cross the canals. They date back to  to the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties.
   
Zhujiajiao

This ancient town has a history spanning 1,700 years and is crisscrossed by rivers and canals and features lots of Ming and Qing Dynasty architecture. What makes Zhujiajiao especially charming is its 36 historical bridges, which have inspired many painters. The most popular of the bridges are Fangsheng and Tai’an. Fan-shaped Zhujiajiao is the nearest water town to Shanghai, so it gets lots of day visitors. The town’s Kezhi Garden is another favourite backdrop for photographers. Other sites not to be missed here include the Qing Dynasty Post Office and the Yuanjin Buddhist Temple.

Above: A grandpa proudly shows off the family's latest addition while his valuables sit in a window.

Tongli

Dating back to the Song Dynasty, Tongli is a wonderful example of a vibrant and functioning water town. It’s surrounded by water and linked by old stone bridges from the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. The classical Tuisi Garden is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its Jiayin Hall and Congben Hall date back 1,000 years. The most photographed bridges in town are the Taiping, Changqing and Jili.
 
Xitang

The easygoing lifetsyle of Xitang is what most people like about this town that emerged during the Tang Dynasty and flourished economically under Song, Ming and Qing rulers.
Unlike nearby Zhouzhuang and Wuzhen, though, Xitang is not a bustling tourist trap — the people here enjoy ordinary, peaceful lives and make their living fishing on the nine canals that flow through town. The compact  town also features a staggering 104 bridges, 122 old lanes and many attractive ceilinged corridors.
   
Nanxun

Nanxun is one of the youngest water towns with just a 760 year history. It’s also one of the most unusual, featuring a combination of Chinese and 18-century European architecture. It grew to prominence thanks to its silk industry, which accounts for the number of stately homes you’ll find gathered along the town’s canals and rivers. Nanzun has been used many times as a backdrop in wedding photographs.  

Above: A fleet of sampans await the arrival of the tourists in Wuzhen, which welcomed 7 million visitors in 2019.

Luzhi

If you’re looking for history, look no further than Luzhi, which has been around for 2,500 years and rose to prominence around the same time as legendary Suzhou, which lies just 32km to the north. Bordered by the Wusong River in the north and the Cheng River to the south, Luzhi has an impressive number of arched bridges, 50 ancient alleys and many historical sites dating back to China’s most progressive dynasties. The main tourist attractions in town are Baosheng Temple, Shen’s House,  Xiao’s House and the Ye Shengtao’s Memorial Hall.

Fengjing

The name Fengjing translates to “beautiful hibiscus town” and thanks to the many lotus ponds scattered around about, it has become a favourite with tourists looking for a horticultural high. The canals here are clearer than what you’ll find in most water towns and they’re crossed by 52 well-preserved bridges, the most famous being the 700-year-old Zhihe Bridge. Fengjing is where many of China’s famous ancient painters hailed from and their ancestral homes now attract many art lovers. One of the most popular venues in town is the home of Ding Cong, a famous Chinese cartoonist. Over 100 of his most treasured works now hang in the exhibition hall.
  

Above: A man heads out to pluck fish from the canals with the help of his birds, left, while a woman, right, opens a shop.

Mudu

This was the first water town built in the province’s Wu region, 2,500 years ago, and it’s only gotten better with age. Mudu is considered to be one of the four ancient beauties of China and legend has it that Qing Dynasty emperors Kangxi and Qianlong travelled here a total of nine times so they could enjoy Mudu’s intoxicating natural beauty. The town’s 30 private gardens are the biggest draws but entering Mudu is like walking into a classical Chinese painting. Our favourite gardens here are the Yan Family Garden and the Old Pine Garden.

Jinxi

The culture of this water town can be traced back to the Neolithic Age and it became famous throughout ancient China for its kiln and clay making abilities. Jinxi is the typical Jiangnan water town whose fertile land produces lots of rice and its canals provide plenty of fish. It’s completly surrounded by water — Dianshan Lake in the east, Cheng Lake in the west, Wubao Lake in the south and Bailian Lake in the north. The town also has 16 lakes and 238 canals and you can explore Ding’s House, the first tile museum in China, as well as Lotus Buddhist Temple.