Amy Laughinghouse revisits the tiny U.S. Virgin Island of St. John a year after it was devastated by back-to-back hurricanes and finds the resilient residents more determined than ever to fight on.

A grey sky hangs over our cruise ship when we drop anchor off this Caribbean beauty. But we refuse to let the weather dampen our spirits because we’re eager to explore this island where Christopher Columbus became the first foreign tourist back in 1493 on his second voyage to the New World.