CHACABUCO VALLEY, CHILE — I remember my first glimpse of Patagonia. My parents had given me a calendar of mountain images one Christmas and the photo for November — Patagonia — was so alarmingly beautiful, I thought it was fake.

PUYEHUE, CHILE - The road leading to the Termas de Puyehue Resort cuts through an enchanting forest where the smell of wood and wet earth mingles with the aromas of fresh bread and tortillas being baked on open fires on the side of the road by the natives who inhabit this fairy tale area of southern Chile.