WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALAND - Capital cities possess a unique quality which isn’t always flattering. Wellington is the exception.
They are, by necessity, administrative hubs which can place bureaucratic efficiency and administrative order above all else—including art, culture, entertainment and general civic vibrancy.
Capitals such as Paris, Rome, Berlin Tokyo are the notable exceptions.The Canberras, Ottawas and even Washingtons of the world have a certain je ne sais quoi that many would rather not know
And so this is why my first trip to Wellington, New Zealand was an eye-opening experience.I was expecting a tiny, non-descript capital, a bee-hive shaped parliament building which I’d read about and the typical collection of streets lined by elegant embassies and ambassadorial mansions, but not much else.
I offer New Zealanders my sincerest apologies because I couldn’t have made a more inaccurate assumption.
Many visitors to New Zealand will pass through Wellington on their way to the picturesque South Island, but only a small few will take the time to experience all that this vibrant capital has to offer.
Unlike those capitals which are so single-mindedly absorbed with the business of governance, Wellington’s cultural heartbeat is just as strong as its political one, making it easy to see why the city is widely regarded in Kiwi circles as the cultural centre of New Zealand.
One of those neighborhoods that couldn’t be more diametrically opposed to the bureaucratic buzz across town is Cuba Street.
It’s here on lazy summer days where street performers impress passersby with juggling displays, musical performances and whatever else they can do to earn money.
"Gather round,” one busker demands before breaking into a set of U2 classics.Locals watch in awe of the performers’ often remarkable skill before strolling down Cuba Mall—the pedestrian-only section of Cuba Street—past tattoo parlors, book shops, vintage clothing stores, bars and cafes too numerous to count.
Cuba Street bounces with bohemian fervor throughout the year, but it’s in summer when the old thoroughfare truly shines. I wander in and out of unique shops wondering: is this a capital city?
My question is answered after I leave Cuba Street and head over to some of the city’s most important institutions.
Left: Wellington has fantastic architecture. Right: The Tasting Room in the eclectic Courtenay Place district.
The most famous of Wellington’s many cultural attractions is Te Papa, New Zealand’s national museum.
Te Papa houses a diverse collection of heritage artifacts that range from colonial antiquities to native Maori art. The museum, unlike its more typical counterparts around the world, presents its collection using multimedia tools including virtual reality rides to explain the country’s rich history.
The city is also home to the Royal New Zealand Ballet, the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra and the National Opera, not to mention the New Zealand Academy of Fine Arts, which houses an important collection of local and international art and is famous for its extensive Maori art exhibits.
But even more importantly of late from an arts perspective is the success of native son Peter Jackson, Oscar-winning director of The Lord Of The Rings trilogy and King Kong.
Jackson is still based in Wellington and has used his country as the backdrop and production hub for the Rings series drawing millions of dollars in film production and tourism money to New Zealand. Locals who have benefited from that sort of residual prosperity and those simply looking for a place to spend their money when the sun has set on Wellington Harbor typically head to the area surrounding the business and commercial center Lambton Quay, where designer fashions and fine cuisine satiate their luxurious needs.
It’s important to note that although it measures only 2 km in diameter, central Wellington boasts more than 300 bars, restaurants and cafes.
It’s in the Courtenay Quarter--packed with watering holes, dining establishments, coffee shops, cinemas and theatres--where that fact becomes obvious.
The streets of this neighborhood overflow with trendsetters showing off their latest finds from the area’s many fashion boutiques as they sip fine wines on the patios of equally trendy restaurants and within the confines of posh lounges.
Those who venture here aim to be seen.Visitors who spend time here, myself included, only hope to be seen here again.