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Snowmass Steps out from Shadows of Aspan

Snowmass Steps out from Shadows of Aspan

SNOWMASS, CO - The menu reads like one of Manhattan’s five-star finest: elk stroganoff, butternut squash soup, and wild salmon salad. Here’s the catch, though. I’m not only hundreds of kilometres from New York City, I’m also clad in ski duds sporting what I can only guess is some glamorous helmet hair.

It’s been a rough day, sarcastically speaking, on the slopes in Snowmass, and because it’s noon, I’ve slipped inside the Lynn Britt Cabin — its name another misnomer with its linen tablecloths and china plates — for a lunch that redefines on-slope eating.

For years, Snowmass has sat in the shadow of its more well-known, swanky sister, Aspen, located just 15 kilometres away. Yet slowly but surely, Snowmass has built itself into a world-class resort of its own, so much so, in fact, that I never even give Aspen more than a nod during my stay. I’m determined to be Snowmass or bust, but as it turns out, there’s no bust about this trip.

Let’s start with the skiing. I’m not one to get caught up in numbers, but they are impressive: 3,362 acres of skiable terrain; the second largest vertical drop in the country, 1,343 metres to be exact; 21 lifts; 94 trails.

Among those trails, I find a favourite, Sheer Bliss. It’s appropriately named, for it’s among the most scenic runs I’ve skied and I appreciate its generous width.

Truth is, though, there’s so much more to Snowmass than just snow, which is why I have no qualms about exiting the slopes early.

My first mission? Wandering Snowmass’ village, or actually, pair of villages. There’s the typical base village you expect to see at any mountain, complete with rental shops, restaurants and even the only ski-in-ski-out bowling alley (and yes, it’s well worth testing your high-altitude bowling skills). Yet just a quick ride from the base on what locals affectionately call the Skittles Gondola – each of its cars is painted a different colour – is the bigger village, featuring a pedestrian-only street lined with chic boutiques, souvenir shops and cafés.

It’s also the home of the Snowmass Ice Age Discovery Center, where I meet a wooden Columbian Mammoth skeleton. It’s no coincidence because in 2010 an archaeological treasure of epic proportions was unearthed at Snowmass — the tusk of a young female mammoth. That led to a massive excavation during which archaeologists found more than 5,000 bones of 41 different kinds of Ice Age animals, including mammoths, mastodons, giant bison, ground sloths and camels, many of which are on display at the centre. They also unearthed about 60 species of plants.

My mammoth fix satisfied, I go in search of another character, this time a Norse god named Ullr. In case you’ve forgotten your Norse mythology, he’s the god of snow and winter, and to reach him I hop a gondola to Elk Camp where I’m met by a bonfire, fire jugglers, ice skaters, snow bikers, snow tubers and bands. It’s all part of Ullr Nights, a regular Friday night event during peak ski season to honor Ullr.

Before I join the festivities, though, I dash into the lodge for a dinner served cafeteria style, although it’s far from normal cafeteria grub — lobster even factors into this menu. And then it’s out to play in the snow. Had I been clad in my winter wear, I’d have joined the hour-long snowshoe tour that’s part of the event. Instead, I flop belly side down on a tube and fly over the snow.

6asp2  6asp3

Left: Tucked away in the US Rockies, Snowmass is a magical place to visit. Right: Long before skiers arrived, prehistoric animals discovered Snowmass.


No surprise, of course, that Snowmass delivers big when it comes to pleasing snow fans. It is Colorado, after all. But it’s the culinary scene that also impresses, essentially taking my taste buds on a culinary adventure of their own.

One afternoon, for instance, I ski to the base and head into Bai Hoi, noshing southeast Asian street food in a trendy urban atmosphere. Think Chiang Mai noodles (red curry with roasted peanuts) and traditional rib eye and chicken pho.

Another night, I dine on French fare at Ricard, where I find a craft beer menu with eight drafts on tap. If that’s not enough diversity, I spend my last night enjoying Southern-style grub at Eight K at the Viceroy Snowmass, so named because the hotel sits at 2,000 metres. It’s an unusual intersection of cuisine where New Orleans meets Colorado; you’ll find Low Country grits and andouille gumbo as well as Colorado wagyu beef and striped bass here – but it works well.

Honestly, though, I’m an après ski girl at heart and love nothing more than cozying up with a good brew, which may be why one of my favorite finds is the Bar at Wildwood, a beer hall created in collaboration with Colorado’s esteemed New Belgium Brewery. Although not an extensive beer menu, I still have a tough time deciding among the nine drafts. Finally, I choose New Belgium’s 1554, and as I sink into one of the many inviting couches, I raise my glass to my new friend Ullr.

If this is how he delivers winter to Snowmass, you can bet I’ll be back.

 

Information
After a full day in the snow, you’ll be ready to hunker down at night in a comfy setting. Stay slopeside and get ski-in-ski-out access at the Westin Snowmass (www.westinsnowmass.com). Here, you’ll find a buzzy lounge with live music several nights a week and several restaurants. / If it’s pampering you crave, veer toward the chic Snowmass Viceroy (www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/en/snowmass) where you’ll be greeted in the lobby by vats of hot chocolate and bowls filled with marshmallows. You can even soothe sore muscles at the small but cozy spa with its water-themed waiting area. / For more information about Snowmass in general, visit www.gosnowmass.com.

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