QUEBEC CITY - History abounds on the narrow cobblestone streets of this living museum and especially in its Petit Champlain district — a UNESCO gem that harkens back to the very beginning of Canada. Sometimes, history even follows you into your hotel room.

When I draw back the curtains of Room 201 in the chic Auberge Saint-Antoine on a glorious cloudless morning, the sunbeam spotlights a small glass case imbedded in my room’s desk.

On closer inspection, I see fragments of a beautiful Bellamine jug (circa 1725) in the case — one of more than 5,000 artifacts recovered when excavation for this boutique beauty started back in the 1990s.

It doesn’t take me long to realize the Auberge Saint-Antoine is part Ritz (stylish rooms with luxury amenities and attentive service) and part Louvre (of the 5,000 artifacts recovered during a 12-year archeological dig, more than 2,500 remain on property, displayed in rooms and public areas).

The Auberge Saint-Antoine’s history dates back almost to the time when explorer Samuel de Champlain landed here in 1608 and established a small settlement just a few metres from where this classic French beauty now stands.

And while the Auberge Saint-Antoine may have started out as a simple stone warehouse (it now houses the property’s gourmet restaurant Panache) in the earliest days of this capital of French Canada, it has blossomed into one of the country’s most luxurious properties, winning accolades for its design and service from most major international travel and industry sources.

And, at 95 rooms and 130 staff, it’s one of the largest members of the distinguished Relais & Chateaux family.

Above: The rooms are modern and chic.

Eager to find out more about this splendid hotel, which sits in the shadows of Quebec’s famed Ramparts and across from the mighty St. Lawrence River and the city’s new cruise ship terminal, I seek out Sébastien Leclair, the property’s sales manager.

When we meet in the Auberge’s quaint lobby, Sébastien leads me to the entrance where, in three glass cases, the Auberge’s evolution is played out in miniature models of early Quebec.

“The St. Lawrence extended to where we are standing now when Champlain first arrived,” explains the informative Sébastien. “Then the harbour was built and later warehouses were added around the 1700s. The original foundation (exposed for all to see at the Auberge’s entrance) dates back to 1720.”

Waves with dates painted into the street outside the Auberge tell visitors exactly how far the St. Lawrence extended back in the early days of Quebec City.

Sébastien then leads me down a flight of stairs off the lobby into the Auberge’s sunken lounge, where he shows me “the most important artifact” in the hotel’s historical collection — a small black cast-iron cannon used by the French in the defence of Quebec against the English.

“It’s one of only a few left in the world and we are very proud to have it,” beams Sébastien, who says the French poured lead into the cannon’s barrel to prevent the English conquerors from ever firing it again.

I’m totally spellbound by other 17th and 18th century relics displayed in the lounge — pottery and Chinese porcelain, farming tools, cannon balls, old glasses worn by the earliest settlers and more military hardware line the walls.

This hotel could easily be a wing of the province’s Museum of Civilization, which coincidentally, happens to sit across the street from the Auberge.

The hotel’s amazing history inspired author Camille Lapointe to write the book Past Perfect. The coffee-table book is beautifully illustrated with historic photos and the passionate words of the author show what an impression the Auberge leaves on those who stay here.

Quebec’s famed Price family (pulp-and-paper and newspaper holdings) lovingly pieced together the Auberge Saint-Antoine from a number of buildings in the historic area so the unique property’s exterior looks like an architectural jigsaw puzzle that comes together to form one of the city’s loveliest hotels.

After showing me modern features, like the hotel’s six conference and reception rooms and a theatre filled with cutting-edge technology which can be used for business lectures “or to watch a hockey game,” Sébastien leads me to the entrance of Panache, the property’s Michelin-star worthy restaurant.

Left: Artifacts are found throughout the hotel. Right: Part of the St. Antoine dates back to the 17th century.

“This is the original warehouse which was used as the lobby of the hotel when we first opened,” says Sébastien, as I scan the beautiful room featuring a high vaulted ceiling, huge exposed wooden beams and a stunning black wrought-iron staircase that leads to a second floor. Above my head is a wooden winch, a reminder of the restaurant’s warehouse beginnings.

Original field-stone walls make the room warm and inviting and the stunning view diners have of the St. Lawrence makes an evening at Panache something very special. But what really sets Panache apart from Quebec City’s other glorious gastronomic experiences is the menu, which Sébastien describes as “French Canadian cuisine with a twist.”

The twist, I discover later, comes in the form of menu specialties like St-Apollinaire duck foie gras with beets and salted honey, Boileau Venison that’s drenched in juniper and poivrade juice, Gaspesie lobster accompanied by artichoke and lemon confit, and Magdalen Islands scallops decorated with razor clams and leeks — food worthy of a French king.

Chef Julien Dumas is the master of Panache’s kitchen and each of his dishes I sample — the foie gras yogurt is my favourite — sends my tastebuds into orgasmic spasms. The restaurant’s cellar is stocked with 700 different labels from 14 countries and, at more than 12,000 bottles, Panache boasts one of the biggest wine collections in the city.

Like everything else at this majestic property, the 95 rooms are a mix of modern and traditional styles — the six historic suites in the Auberge’s Maison Hunt wing on the second and third floors come wrapped in elegant features — one has a tiled fireplace and four others feature balconies.

These suites include a Queen bed and sitting area — a tribute to the property’s New France and Victorian eras.

My favourite suite is room 302 — the Gustav III — which is decorated in Wedgwood blue and its cozy fireplace invites guests to cuddle up on a chilly Quebec night.

Left: Marks outside hotel show where St. Lawrence water came to in 1600s. Right: Each room has a part of history.

The contemporary rooms feature Queen or King-size beds and offer modern amenities that keep business travellers connected and pamper weekend tourists with large bathrooms equipped with heated floors, oversized shower and bath stalls, and no-fog mirrors. Many of the newer rooms still feature original stone walls and every one has a piece of history — each artifact has an explanation of its historical significance.

A bicycle and walking path snakes its way through a riverside park across from the Auberge Saint-Antoine — it follows the St. Lawrence for about 20 kilometres — and the hotel supplies guests with bikes so they can enjoy an easy ride along one of North America’s most treasured waterways.

Just a few kilometres from the Auberge along the bike trail, Sébastien introduces me to Bassin Brown, a small park with a reception hall where the hotel has set up “Panache Mobile,” a gourmet food truck that serves up delicacies like lobster rolls and offers great views of Quebec’s South Shore and the slow-moving cargo ships making their way to and from the Atlantic.

The Auberge also features a well-equipped workout room and a small spa.

Don’t let the spa’s size fool you, however, because the therapists are well-trained and offer some very special deep-tissue treatments, which are perfect after a long bike ride.

As the book says, Auberge Saint-Antoine is “Past Perfect” but after only one visit, we find it to be perfect, period!