The world is changing, and I don’t like what I’m seeing. Cities that were once distinctive, now all look the same.
When I look out from my hotel window in China, I’m not sure if I’m in Shanghai, Beijing, Hong Kong, Guangzhou or Shenzhen – their modern skylines are all similar.
I’m not the only one who’s noticed. China’s President Xi Jinping recently went on record to say the modern architecture that now dominates major Chinese cities does not reflect the distinct culture of Asian design and he wants architects to change their approach.
China is not unique, however. As tourism becomes more homogenized – God forbid that we offend tour groups with odd smells or dirty conditions – we are losing what makes cities and their ancient landmarks different from what we see at home.
The only thing that made Dubai interesting for me, for instance, was its dusty old gold souk, which stands out in this modern architectural wonderland. It was there that I got a sense of the history and culture of this tiny Emirate. But now comes word that the retailers of the gold souk, some of whose families have been operating here for centuries, are being evicted while the souk is “modernized.” The old shops will undoubtedly be replaced by high-end boutiques like Gucci, Prada, Tom Ford, etc., all catering to the burgeoning Chinese tourist market.
In Istanbul, plans are underway to “modernize” the Grand Bazarr, which dates back to the 15th century and remains the city’s biggest tourist attraction, averaging 300,000 visitors a day. So instead of bargaining with vendors over the price of lamps and carpets, which their families have been making for decades, we’ll be left to look at display windows showcasing the same European fashions we see everywhere else in the world.
On a visit to Venice last year, I was shocked to find that all the old glass and mask shops that once ringed St. Mark’s Square and date back to the beginning of this waterlogged beauty, are all gone – replaced, of course, by more high-end and high-priced designer shops.
What next? Will Mumbai’s dirty old Crawford Market, which exudes so much character, be knocked down for a glass and steel shopping mall? Will the streets of Old Hanoi be turned into a pedestrian mall, the scents of pho cooking in open pots replaced by the smell of high-priced French perfumes.
Travel once introduced us to new worlds through old landmarks, many of which did not smell very good or look as organized as what we see back home.
It’s time to leave well enough alone when it comes to “modernizing” the ancient world.