VARADERO, CUBA — The last time I checked in with TraveLife, I was in Europe with my 6-month-old daughter.
Vacations have always been fast-paced and we needed to switch gears. A good ol’ do nothing, get bored and take naps type of holiday is what I hoped for. What has changed since Europe? Ari is now a 1-year-old on the move. She is heavier, louder and more demanding.
Because the little one was tagging along, our options for luxury resorts was limited.  We booked our stay at the only child-friendly 5-star hotel in Varadero.  We learned some lessons the hard way and left Cuba with advice we wish we knew beforehand. Here is my practical, no-nonsense guide to travelling to the Caribbean with a 1-year-old.

MAKING TRAVEL PLANS    

Maximize your vacation time — arrive early and leave late. Fly through the night and hopefully during your child’s bedtime. Consider the hotel’s proximity to the airport when booking — the last thing you need after a long flight is a miniature road trip.
Select your seats wisely. If your child qualifies for the flight bassinet, request it in advance. If not, a seat with extra leg room is helpful with a restless, mobile baby.
Ari is in the troublesome "too big for bassinet but too small for her own seat" phase. Our sweaty, little furnace slept with her body spread out across both of our laps. This was the only sleeping position that worked for her.  If this is a viable option for you, avoid the mistake we made on our flight home and ensure the seats you select allow for raised armrests.

 

Above: Ari and her parents look right at home on the beaches of Cuba.

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The Varadero Airport had few functioning restrooms and limited food options. Unless chips and cerveza is your baby’s preferred meal, packing child-friendly food is necessary.
Medicine is always accessible and stored in our carry-on. This is a hard and fast rule. Over-the-counter medications are overpriced in the airport and hotel, and the non-English labels may be an issue.
Ari’s fussiness peaked before we boarded the plane. I do not encourage sedating children before a flight, but these were special circumstances. We gave her a dose of Benadryl and prayed to the drowsiness gods it would kick in, but the girl was resilient. Although her fussiness pushed through the diphenhydramine, I was happy we had it on hand to try.  Our next step: apologize to everyone around us for her screams.

THE SLEEP DRILL

Stop, drop and roll. This was our tactical plan when Ari stirred in her sleep. Stop what you’re doing, drop all devices and roll away from the bomb. The bomb being our half-awake daughter.
The "do not disturb" sign will be your best friend, and not for the same reasons when you were childless and free.  A single housekeeping knock on the door is all it takes to start the nap process all over again.
Use the balcony as an escape during nap time. It is close enough to keep an eye on your baby, but far enough to not disturb their sleep. We discovered ours too late.

   

Left: Hanging out around the pool was one of Ari's favourite things to do. Right: Ari sampled lots of local cuisine during her stay in Cuba and found plenty of good things to eat.

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SPLISH SPLASH: BEACH AND POOL

A fun fact we wish we knew beforehand: Swim diapers are not absorbent.
 They are designed to keep the doo-doos contained, but are a free-for-all for urine. If you have ever wondered who pees in the pool — babies do. When out of the water, double up with an absorbent diaper on the outside.
Although the beaches were stunning, Ari preferred the pool. I didn’t mind — there was no sand for her to feast on.  We were grateful for the infant float that provided entertainment, sun shade and relief from carrying her in the water.
A long-sleeved UV-protective, rash guard suit is a must. It may not be stylish but it is the safest option. Consider packing swim shoes to protect delicate baby feet from hot sand and shells.
Tips to keep in mind when outdoors:
1. Salt and chlorine can damage stroller frames.
2. Stroller bug nets are a life-saver.
3. Babies overheat quickly — limit sun exposure, keep them hydrated and take breaks indoors to avoid heat stroke.

DINING

New record achieved: I can scarf down an entire lobster in 60 seconds.
Eating used to be my favourite activity but it became the most dreaded on this vacation. We had a small window to eat before Ari grew restless and she quickly learned screaming was the key to getting what she wanted.
My plan was to exclusively feed her packaged food to avoid the risk of foodborne illness. This was not feasible with my foodie baby. Ari was consuming all of the no-nos on Day 1 — fresh fruit, shellfish and sweaty cheese. Who was I kidding?
The buffet was a child-friendly atmosphere. Screams were drowned out by background noise, high chairs were available and food was ready-to-go. We took turns entertaining and walking her outside while the other parent ate alone. This was quality family time.  Can you successfully dine out with a 1-year-old? If anyone says yes, they are probably lying.
We received our fair share of dirty looks and snarky comments. I resented the guests who rolled their eyes when we entered restaurants.  If you cannot tolerate children, there is an adults only resort next door.  My advice: ignore the judgment and do not let it ruin your experience. Your child is allowed to act like a child.

Above: A day trip to Havana proved a bit too much for mom and daughter, who flaked out in the back of the cab.

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ATTEMPTED DAY TRIP TO HAVANA

Havana is a two-hour drive from Varadero. With an unpredictable baby, we opted for a private tour booked through the hotel. In hindsight, this was not the best option.
Our guide arrived in a vintage car. Although charming, it did not include air conditioning, seat belts or car seat anchors. Throw your First World safety standards out the window. We sped down Cuban highways free-holding our baby in a 60-year-old car. This would not fly in North America.
Labelling our guide unconventional is an understatement. He was the master of inappropriate remarks and walked us through questionable neighbourhoods. Our day was in his hands and because of this, we cut it short after only three hours in Havana.
A vetted personal guide or structured group tour would have been the better choice.

HEALTH ADVISORIES

Zika Virus: The Zika virus is active in Cuba. It can cause severe birth defects when passed from a mother to her fetus. Zika is commonly transmitted to humans through bites from infected mosquitoes. Public health agencies advise pregnant women and individuals planning a pregnancy to avoid Cuba.

Hepatitis A & B: Protection against Hepatitis A & B is recommended.  Hepatitis A is spread through contaminated food and water. Most of our daily routine put us at risk — eating, swimming and bathing. Twinrix, a combined Hepatitis A and B vaccine, can be administered to a 12-month-old and requires three doses over six months — plan accordingly. If your child is unvaccinated, you can reduce their risk of contracting Hepatitis A by exclusively nursing or feeding packaged baby food, using distilled water and avoiding the pool.

I may have mommy goggles on, but despite her screams, Ari’s smile and giggles are contagious. She built a following of admirers and was nicknamed Princesa, Chica Bonita and — I’m not sure how I feel about this one — La Chinita.
I admit, I needed a vacation from my vacation. Travelling baby-less is more relaxing, but not as rewarding.
I love her, I complain about her and I am never leaving her behind.  •