PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA - We arrive at the boulevard running along the Mekong before the boats have begun racing. The streets have been decreed pedestrian only and are empty of their notoriously chaotic traffic. The city is quiet without its usual din of motorbikes, tuk tuks, cars and Hummers, and I can’t quite believe I don’t have to triple-check for SUVs before crossing the street.