PHNOM PENH — When I spent a few years in Cambodia, I lived for a year in a Phnom Penh neighbourhood called Russian Market. My apartment was a stone’s throw from the eponymous market itself.

BATTAMBANG, CAMBODIA - The narrow bridge does not inspire confidence. It is made of wooden planks laid beside each other with conspicuous gaps between them. At the other end, a child takes no chances and walks her bicycle, rather than riding it.

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA - We arrive at the boulevard running along the Mekong before the boats have begun racing. The streets have been decreed pedestrian only and are empty of their notoriously chaotic traffic. The city is quiet without its usual din of motorbikes, tuk tuks, cars and Hummers, and I can’t quite believe I don’t have to triple-check for SUVs before crossing the street.