AMSTERDAM – It’s an honest question from someone wanting to immerse themselves in this country’s food culture: “Where does a visitor to the Netherlands find authentic Dutch cuisine and what are the favoured dishes among the locals?”

The Amsterdam policeman who fields the question just smiles and says: “We Dutch prefer the food from countries we tried to colonize – stick to Indonesian and Thai food while you are here.”

He’s right. The Indonesian and Thai restaurants operating in the Dutch capital offer some of the finest Asian cuisine anywhere in the world.

But surely, the sophisticated Dutch – once economic rulers of the world - don’t survive on French fries smothered in mayonnaise and raw herring alone?

So, during my three-day visit to this European capital of culture and good times, I make it a priority to find a restaurant offering authentic Dutch cuisine.

The search leads me straight to the front door of the Haesje Claes, a homey establishment located in the city’s historic Centrum (central) District, not far from Dam Plein (square) where the royal palace is located and within walking distance of Amsterdam’s majestic Central Rail Station.

“Greetings,” says Hugo de Haan, the congenial owner of the charming restaurant - a perfect example of traditional 17th century Dutch architecture – which is located across the street from the Amsterdam Historical Museum.

The owner listens intently as I relate the policeman story and he breaks into laughter.

“Look around,” says de Haan, who waves his arm over a room wrapped in warm dark oak paneling and filled to capacity. “Obviously,” continues de Haan, “there are a lot of people who DO like our (Dutch) food.”

The line of patrons looking for a seat in the 350-seat restaurant grows longer as de Haan orders one of the restaurant’s charming servers, a young woman named Marlene, to fetch the stranger an order of traditional Dutch soup, made with peas, sausage and bacon.

While we wait for the server with the infectious laugh to return, de Haan serves up some interesting tidbits about the restaurant’s name.

“Haesje Claes is actually the name of a woman. She started an orphanage in the building across the street where the Amsterdam Historical Museum is now,” de Haan says as the steaming hot soup arrives.

“The orphanage opened in 1520. There were a lot of orphans back then because fathers would go off to sea and never return. Desperate mothers were forced to abandon their children and Haesje Claes took the kids in and cared for them,” says the owner, who wonders how I’m enjoying the soup?

“Good,” says de Haan when I report the traditional Dutch soup is hearty and flavourful.

“Now you should have some Amsterdam croquettes – with shrimps - accompanied by some Amsterdam cheese,” says de Haan, who dispatches Marlene to the kitchen again to fetch the order.

Above: Markets throughout Amsterdam sell only the freshest ingredients.

“The orphanage closed in the 1950s but some of the people who were there still come back to the restaurant to reminisce and bring me gifts,” the owner continues. De Haan then points to the rows of knickknacks lining every wall of the restaurant and says most were presented to him by the aging orphans.

Just then, an assistant manager whispers something in de Haan’s ear and the owner excuses himself but promises to return.

While he’s attending to business, I chow down the crispy, golden brown croquettes – they’ve been an Amsterdam staple since the beginning of this fascinating city – and I report to Marlene that the cheese that bears the city’s name has an amazing texture and an unexpected bite.

“Would you now like to try the Dutch beefsteak, or maybe the salted herring with onions, Dutch meatballs with cabbage, black pudding with warm apple chunks, maybe some pan-fried cod or hotchpotch (a hearty winter dish made with potatoes and vegetables mashed together and usually comes topped with sausage)?” asks Marlene, who adds, “I grew up eating all these dishes and the only place that makes them better than here is my mother’s house.”

Marlene says my choice of the Dutch beefsteak is a good one and as she leaves to place the order, de Haan returns.

“A large group of Spanish tourists just arrived but I think I have them settled now. We get a lot of tourists who want to try traditional Dutch food – just like you,” says de Haan, who tells me the restaurant has been in his family’s hands for almost 50 years.

“My uncle Andre, who never married, ran the restaurant for 40 years before he retired and passed it on to me. My uncle couldn’t handle the pressure of the business any longer but he’s opened up an antique kitchen shop just next door and it’s doing very well,” reports de Haan as the Dutch beefsteak arrives.

“My brother Bas is the head chef here – he used to work in a Michelin-star restaurant, you know,” states de Haan. “My sister is a server here and my 72-year-old mother arranges the flowers each day. We are a very close family.”

Above: Holland's sea treats are the best.

The beefsteak with the peppercorn sauce is cooked to perfection and the accompanying Amsterdam pickles are tart and tasty.

The clock strikes 9 p.m. but the line at the door is still growing.

“It stays this way almost to closing,” says the owner whose restaurant, despite its size, exudes a cozy ambience. “The problem we have here is that no one wants to leave,” says de Haan, who insists I have the Dutch apple pie “with ice cream” for dessert.

The sweet treat proves to be the perfect ending to the perfect meal in this perfect Dutch restaurant.

The next day, while exploring narrow Nes Street in the city’s historic financial district, where, in the 16th century, the world’s first stock market and the first bank to offer consumer loans were located, I cash in on another restaurant offering traditional Dutch food – the Brasserie Harkema.

One of the entries on the menu, croque monsieur, however, looks more French than Dutch.

“The French may have invented the croque monsieur but we Dutch perfected it,” says my delightful server who promises “your Dutch croque monsieur will be the best you’ve ever tasted.”

The pan-toasted sandwich stuffed with Dutch ham and topped with melted Amsterdam cheese is an orgasmic taste delight. The only thing better are the restaurant’s Amsterdam croquettes – you can never get too many Amsterdam croquettes with shrimp stuffing while in Amsterdam – that follow.

However, as my stay in Amsterdam nears a close, the lure of Indonesian food, perfected by the large Dutch Indonesian population now living here, is too much to resist and I find myself sitting at a table at the trendy Puri Mas restaurant on Lange Leidsedwarsstraat in the city centre’s entertainment district.

“Indonesian food is very much a staple in Amsterdam now,” Kim, my server, contends. “And we make it in the Dutch style here.”

Appetizer portions of skewered pork, chicken and shrimp smothered in a peanut sauce are mouthwatering delicious and the tapas entrees, consisting of curried lamb, chicken in a spicy sauce and cubes of tender pork that come floating in a ginger gravy, are equally appetizing.

But what makes them Dutch?

“We speak Dutch,” says Kim.

Now that’s some food for thought.