ISTANBUL - Bahar dumps pales of soapy, warm water over my body, and limb by limb she scrubs me down. I’m lying in my birthday suit underneath the dome of a Turkish hammam. The heat and the methodical sound of water hitting the stone floor are lulling me to sleep. And when I open my eyes in between rinsing, I’m surrounded by foggy steam and the outline of other women, barely clad as they’re bathed, too.