WARSAW - It’s a bright July morning, and we’re picking out a crate of plump raspberries at Hale Mirowskie market when one of the vendors, a wiry woman with a grey-blond ponytail, leans over and abruptly asks, “What are you doing here?”

WARSAW - As I stand at the foot of what could be known as The Empire Distaste Building, I am reminded of Apocalypse Then in a city that really and truly has come back from the dead.