Uglich, Russia — The aha moment arrived around teatime in this charming town along the Volga River known for its historic buildings, watchmaking and cheese. Uglich is one of Russia’s Golden Ring cities — an informal term given to a group of picturesque towns northeast of Moscow with Medieval, well-preserved architecture — and also the place of exile for Ivan the Terrible’s wife and son, Dimitri (later murdered), after the ruler died in 1584. My husband and I were ex...