I love cemeteries, because they’re alive with history. European gravesites especially fascinate me. A stroll through Paris’ Pere Lachaise Cemetery, where the likes of Chopin and Jim Morrison are buried, or Edinburgh’s 16th-century Greyfriars Kirkyard with its touching legend of Greyfriars’ Bobby (a faithful Skye terrier who spent 14 years guarding the gravesite of his master), or London’s Westminster Cathedral, where kings, queens, explorers and the giants of English literature lie in crypt...

The young backpackers walking the streets of this enchanting city clutching Starbucks cups attract contemptuous stares from some elderly locals. One grandmotherly type sneers at a group of Americans balancing their designer coffee in one hand while texting friends back home with the other.

A chill air seeps through the cracks in the massive wooden doors that hang at St. Stephen’s Cathedral, but the assembled inside are being warmed by the angelic voices and heavenly music being played at the evening concert.