BUDAPEST, HUNGARY – To my right sat an elderly man in a Speedo; eyes closed and head tilted contentedly back. To my left was a smiling woman of the same age, blissfully spilling out of her bathing suit.

It’s a bit late when I arrive in Hungary’s capital, around 8 p.m. But I’m anxious to begin exploring this city divided by the River Danube, so I drop my bags off at the hotel, grab my coat and head out on a moonless night. Big mistake!