• Recent
  • Popular
  • Tag
Seeing England Through James Bond's Eyes

Seeing England Through James Bond's Eyes

LONDON – Bond, James Bond. So many people come to England each year looking for anything associated with the suave super spy known to millions of adoring fans simply as 007. And with each new episode and each new Bond (currently it’s heartthrob Daniel Craig who’s playing 007 and still beating off evil agents and beautiful women) more new fans are born and more new film locations emerge for Bond tourists to discover.

Oh, how the martini-sipping 007 has shaken and stirred our emotions over the years.

And, being the mega-Bond fan I am, I set out on one trip to England to find the places where Bond stays, shops, drinks … “I want to see anything associated with the Bond movies and books,” I tell Alan Tichard, a delightful Londoner and 007 expert who shepherds Bond fans around different parts of England, introducing them to the locations made famous by the series.

“This tour is For Your Eyes Only,” laughs Tichard as we leave the lobby of the Dukes Hotel, the place where author Ian Fleming, the man who gave birth to Bond in his early novels, came to sip martinis in the hotel’s quaint bar – the martinis that would become 007s signature drink – shaken, not stirred, of course.

Tichard promises to take me to several famous stores nearby where Bond shops, but as we pass the Hilton hotel in Trafalgar Square, the guide tells me the property’s boardroom was used in early 007 films like Dr. No.

On a narrow Piccadilly street behind department store icon Fortnum and Mason, Tichard brings me to the entrance of a store made famous by Bond – Favourbrook Men’s Shop, where Fleming had Bond buy his cool clothes. Favourbrook's Alan Mumuni tells me the shop also dresses the actors who play Bond.

"We supplied the tuxedos for (former Bonds) Pierce Brosnan's wedding and Roger Moore had all the men outfitted here for his daughter's wedding," said the helpful Mumuni, adding that not a day goes by that a 007 fan doesn't come into the shop and ask about their wise-cracking hero. Another store in the area that sees lots of 007 traffic is the Counter Spy Shop. Mark Fearon, an attendant at Counter Spy, tells me, "We get at least one person coming in each day asking what role we play in the Bond films. We've been open 42 years and we mainly work with law enforcement agencies and the military. But the only thing people want to talk about is Bond and his spy toys."

Trumpers, located near Bond Street - of course – is where only people with a Goldfinger or a Golden Eye can afford to browse, and where Bond buys his favourite aftershave/cologne, Eucris - described by one of the shop's attendants as "a sophisticated fragrance with top notes of blackcurrant, cumin and coriander, a hint of jasmine mixed with musk and moss."

It costs about $100 for a small bottle by the way.

Walking back to the Hilton through Leicester Square, I spotted Brosnan's handprints embedded in the sidewalk along with hundreds of other movie stars (Brosnan cemented his legend here in 1995 after the release of Golden Eye). It was there I noticed a group of people gathered outside the display windows at Harrods, the fashionable department store in Knightsbridge. Inside, the Aston Martin cars used in the Bond flicks had people gasping with excitement.

It's time to say goodnight - and we're not talking about the Bond girl named Miss Goodnight, played by Britt Ekland in The Man With The Golden Gun – to my guide after a hectic first day, but he promises to “collect” me early next morning so we can continue our Bond tour. I'm up at the crack of dawn on Day Two and after a spot of tea with Tichard, we head down to the River Thames for a champagne cruise - naturally - along the famed body of water that played an important role in two Bond movies - The World Is Not Enough and Goldeneye. We board a tiny tour boat at Westminster Pier, near Bollinger's - the home of Bond's favourite bubbly - and the MI6 building - Britain's real spy agency where the real M gives out assignments to real life Bonds. The modern MI6 structure is the one Brosnan leaped from in a jet boat in The World Is Not Enough - one of the best chase scenes in Bond history.

It's hard not to think of myself as Bond as the tour boat heads out on the same route as 007 did in the chase scene - speeding (or in this case, chugging) past the Houses of Parliament, the Tower of London and Tower Bridge and the revitalized Docklands, before ending up near the Millennium Dome, where the movie chase also ended.

After lunch at the River Walk Grill Restaurant on the banks of the Thames, Tichard, leads me through the narrow streets of Mayfair, the chic area of London where spies - real and imagined - like to hang out. Tichard, dressed in black velvet pants and jacket which he has accented with a blood-red ascot and black-brimmed hat, is a character himself and a fountain of information about spies.

His company, Original London Walks, not only introduces visitors to the places where Bond hung out but also the London buildings from which infamous Soviet spies like Kim Philby operated.

25england1-photo1

Above: The Thames River plays a role in many of the James bond movies.


Fleming liked a restaurant in Mayfair called Scotts, so that is where I decide to dine on Day Two. Fleming, who hatched his ideas for the Bond books while working for the Admiralty in Whitehall during World War II - he served as personal assistant to the Director of Naval Intelligence at the time - obviously had good taste in restaurants because the dignified Scotts surpasses my expectations.

On Day Three, we head out to the London Science Museum, where they’ve held numerous "Bond, James Bond" exhibitions, complete with interactive displays that include original objects from the 007 films - like Oddjob's deadly bowler hat and Rosa Klebb's lethal shoe. The exhibition also features a replica of M's office and Q's workshop, filled with all the lethal gadgets the loveable scientist invented for the unappreciative Bond.

In one of the displays, with the help of a TV screen backdrop, you get a chance to hang from San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge like Moore did in A View To A Kill. The exhibition includes a Rogues Gallery that is so well done it will scare The Living Daylights out of you. After completing your tour of the exhibition, you will be debriefed on your performance as a special agent. The kids - and the kid in all of us - love this exhibition, which has also made world tours.

Having worked up an appetite, I head to a restaurant called HUSH, a not-so-secret establishment located in Mayfair that is co-owned by Geoffrey Moore, the son of my favourite James Bond, Roger Moore.

I'm hoping that Moore, the elder, who played 007 in seven Bond films, might make an appearance. He doesn't, but I do get a quick glance at the dashing younger Moore . It’s time to head back to the incredible Dukes Hotel near St. James Palace where Tony, the head bartender, has agreed to show me how to make the perfect martini. Tony's drink is nearly lethal and I wonder aloud why a sophisticated spy like Bond would prefer this horrible tasting stuff.

"It's a taste that only a man of Bond's good upbringing would appreciate," responds the delightful Tony.

On Day Four, I bid Tichard farewell and depart London by car and head out on some great back roads to Beaulieu - pronounced Bu-lea by the locals - where the National Motor Museum is located and where a James Bond Boats Exhibition is being held. Even if you are not a Bond fan, the chance to travel the beautiful English countryside is well worth the trip to Beaulieu.

Like the science museum back in London, the motor museum is a great thrill for Bond fans, who get a look at the world record jumping speed boat Moore used to leap alligator-infested swamps in Live and Let Die.

It sits beside Q's road boat from The World Is Not Enough and the "bath-o-sub" craft used by Blofeld in Diamonds Are Forever. Not to be missed is the world's first ever jet ski vehicle from The Spy Who Loved Me.

The museum offers Bond junkies many other artifacts from the 007 films, including Jaw's shirt and a genuine shooting script from the making of Thunderball.

The drive and museum took up most of Day Four, so after a good night's sleep at the 16th-century Talland Bay Hotel, a lovely Cornish inn located on a hill overlooking beautiful emerald pastures and rugged Atlantic coastline, I drive to the nearby Eden Project, the indoor tropical forest that played a prominent role as the villain's lair in Die Another Day.

This jungle under glass has become one of the most important industries in economically challenged Cornwall - one of the poorest regions in Europe. The massive domed complex that contains thousands of plant species from every region on Earth, attracts almost two million visitors a year. After my visit to the Eden project, it’s time to return to London to catch my flight home.If you are a true Bond fan, you must take this trip because as I discovered: You Only Live Once!

Related

Tags

Categories

England

Share

Post a Comment