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Rotterdam’s past, present thrive in the ‘Basement’

Rotterdam’s past, present thrive in the ‘Basement’

ROTTERDAM - Our water taxi cuts through a foggy mist and bounces off the choppy surf while making its way across the harbour to Kop van Zuid, this city’s trendy entertainment district located on the southern bank of the River Maas.

As we near Wilhelminapier, a dated building stands out from the modern glass and steel towers that dominate Rotterdam’s revitalized port area. Spotlights highlight the structure’s handsome red sandstone exterior and distinctive octagonal towers; and through a light drizzle I see painted on the side of the building in big gold letters the words “Holland Amerika Line.”

In a place that has few historic icons - the Nazi’s levelled most of Rotterdam over five days of relentless bombing at the beginning of World War II - the former headquarters of the famed Holland America Line stands as an important cornerstone to this city’s past. Built in the latter part of the 19th century, the building is a treasure chest of memories for many North Americans, as well, for this was the starting point for their ancestors who ventured to the New World - mainly New York - in the mid-20th century aboard Holland America ships which left from here.

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Above: Entrance to the Basement and a photo from the past.


After disembarking the water taxi, I find myself standing in front of the stubby landmark admiring its intriguing façade decorations, which refer to the building’s connection to the sea and the exotic destinations where Holland America took passengers - Indian, Egyptian and Arab figures in costumes attest to that.

And while it no longer has any connection to the Holland America Line (it’s now part of the Carnival Cruise Group and headquartered in Seattle) the building continues to welcome travellers - it was transformed into Hotel New York in 1993 and has become one of Rotterdam’s hottest properties.

These days, thanks to the opening of a chic new restaurant called The NY Basement, located in the bowels of the hotel, the building has found new life with the city’s younger set, who come to enjoy the room’s intimate atmosphere, its remarkable cuisine and soak up some of its history.

Before being seated, I wander the public areas of the 72-room hotel and admire the faded black and white photographs on its walls showcasing passengers from the1930s and ’40s waiting to board ships. Their gaunt faces - many were escaping poverty and religious persecution in Europe at the time - are filled with fear of the unknown. Their worldly goods are crammed in small wooden cases flung on their shoulders. The pictures are worth a thousand words.

It’s a much different scene in the hotel’s lobby today - jet setters arrive with designer luggage and are whisked to rooms that have all the trappings a modern-day traveller demands.

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Above: The Hotel New York brings back many memories of Rotterdam's past.


I’m welcomed to The NY Basement by a young woman who tells me the restaurant’s “authentic oyster bar” is inspired by Paris bistros, and it’s located “right where tickets for the ocean crossings to America were once sold.”

The shellfish served in NY Basement is so fresh you can still taste the salty sea in we every bite. The oysters, crab, mussels and lobster dishes come swimming in rich sauces enhanced with cream and Pernod. Our server suggests we start with a half dozen oysters; follow that with a seafood platter; and wash it all down with a glass of Prosecco. Who are we to argue.

The room’s menu features lots of “small dishes” which allows diners to sample many of Chef Edward de Ridder’s culinary creations and still have room for desert - make sure you try the rhubarb crumble.

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Left: Holland America building still looks impressive. Right: the lounge inside The Basement.


Chef regularly changes the menu to reflect the season and trends and puts an emphasis on freshness - “farm to table” is a commandment in his kitchen.

An order a piri piri chicken follows the seafood dishes - it comes floating atop a spicy Portuguese sauce and it’s delicious!

After eating, most people drift into the bar area of the NY Basement, where lively chatter fills the air. The atmosphere is electric - just as it must of been when the Hotel New York was the headquarters of the Holland America Line.

Some things never change.

Information
Rooms at the Hotel New York start at around $150 (Cdn) a night. The views from most rooms of Rotterdam’s futuristic skyline and busy harbour are breathtaking. / Oyster bar dishes at NY Basement can be ordered every day from noon until 11.00 p.m. NY Basement is open every day from 3:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. On Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, it is also possible to enjoy lunch starting at noon. / Dogs are allowed in the restaurant until 5.00 p.m. / To make reservations at the Hotel New York or the NY Basement, go to www.hotelnewyork.com / You get a great view of the Erasmus Bridge and the tallest building in the Benelux, the Maastoren, from the hotel. / The best way to get to Rotterdam from Canada is with KLM via Amsterdam. / Another restaurant we highly recommend you try in Rotterdam is Las Palmas, located next to Hotel New York, which is governed by Dutch celebrity Chef Herman den Blijker. The seafood and meat dishes rival NY Basement. For information, go to https://restaurantlaspalmas.nl/en / The SS Rotterdam is permanently anchored close to the Hotel New York and has been transformed into a floating hotel. To find out more about the SS Rotterdam, go to ssrotterdam.com / For information on upcoming events in Rotterdam, go to en.rotterdampartners.nl/ / For more information on Holland, go to www.holland.com

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