A chill air seeps through the cracks in the massive wooden doors that hang at St. Stephen’s Cathedral, but the assembled inside are being warmed by the angelic voices and heavenly music being played at the evening concert.

It’s a bit late when I arrive in Hungary’s capital, around 8 p.m. But I’m anxious to begin exploring this city divided by the River Danube, so I drop my bags off at the hotel, grab my coat and head out on a moonless night. Big mistake!

Sometimes you have to get off the well-worn tourist path to find unexpected treasures. And Hradec Kralove proves that detours can be rewarding.

It was while exploring the labyrinth of narrow streets that run off this city’s handsome main square, the Grand Place, that I was lured down an alley by the sight of two men sitting at a table sipping beer.