PUERTO ESCONDIDO, MEXICO — Along a barely discernible roadway, a dog leans back lazily as it settles in to resume its snooze in the dusty shade. Bells toll, not on the hour or half of it, but somewhere in between, as they seem to announce their own purpose to the moment. Roosters can be heard, as can the children in schoolyards, all in the distance but seemingly close by at the same time.