BETHLEHEM — I join the long line of Christian pilgrims slowly making their way out of the Church of the Nativity — believed to the birthplace of Jesus — and into Manger Square.
The Byzantine basilica, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was originally built by Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, between 330 and 333CE and is the oldest major church in the Holy Land. The original structure was destroyed by fire in the 6th century and a new basilica was built by Emperor Justinian.
As we enter Manger Square, our guide, Patricia, tells us we are going to an off-beat hotel for some refreshments.

Above: An interesting bellman and a curious cat, both Banksy art pieces, greet guests.

Our bus drops us off on Carlita St. at the door to The Walled Off Hotel, which boasts the “World’s Worst Views.” That’s because the hotel, which features the works of the infamous — and still anonymous — artist Banksy, is built adjacent to the Israeli West Bank Barrier, also known as the West Bank Fence. Calling the 8m-high concrete structure a fence, however, is like calling Goliath David.
Dubbed the “Separation” or “Apartheid Wall” by critics, when completed the wall will run 708km and include exclusionary zones of 60m to 100m. The wall was built by the Israeli government and encloses the Palestinian territory and annexes parts of its land. Depending on who you talk to, it's either an important security measure (suicide bombings have decreased since it was erected), or a mechanism of apartheid.
The wall has also become an important representation of “art as resistance” and is covered by graffiti and artwork. The portion of the fence beside the Walled Off Hotel features original artwork by Banksy, as well as major contributions from local Palestinian artists, and has garnered international attention.
Well, of course it has, because Banksy always creates a buzz.

Above: Israel's controversial wall has become a public art gallery for political artists.

An England-based artist and political activist, Banksy’s street art and epigrams are achieved by a stencil technique that is distinctive to him and each piece rings with satire. I never study a Banksy piece without walking away contemplating one important issue or another.
To really take in the murals, comments, poetry and artwork, and perhaps contribute your own artistic flare, you should give yourself about an hour to take in this part of the wall.
And then there is the Walled Off Hotel itself. It deserves your undivided attention.
The hotel possesses views of the graffiti-strewn concrete wall from almost every room, each of which is unique and customized by Banksy as well as artists Sami Musa and Dominique Petrin.
As we stride to the entrance, I spy a bellhop who is obviously having some trouble juggling the many bags in his charge. Oh, wait! The bellhop is a monkey and the first piece of artwork you encounter as you enter the hotel.

Above: Guest rooms and public areas at the Walled Off Hotel are unlike anything you'll see anywhere else.

At the reception desk, a black-and-white cat is terrorizing a dove of peace housed in a gilded cage. Right, another lovely example of Banksy’s satirical style.
The hotel’s piano bar —which includes a bespoke self-playing baby grand — is a tribute to British colonial elegance, with its slow-moving ceiling fans, deep comfy leather couches and uber comfortable chairs. The room is full of Banksy’s artwork, which I consider as I enjoy my warm scones and fresh-brewed tea, all served on the finest of bone china.
The dichotomy between the irreverent artwork and the grand display of British colonial style makes me chuckle. Of course, much of the art in the hotel makes me smile, even as it impels me to contemplate the condition of the world through Banksy’s eyes.
The hotel contains a museum about the history of region, a biography of the wall and beach sculptures from Gaza. There is a state-of-the-art multi-media presentation and the museum contains a repository for local stories, oral history, artifacts and testimonies.
There is also an art gallery that operates separately from the hotel and is the largest platform for Palestinian artists to showcase their work through rotating exhibits.
I do wonder why Banksy built a hotel in Bethlehem, in a contentious and sometimes dangerous place.
“Well,” I am told by a hotel representative, “this is the centre of the universe. Every time God comes to Earth, it seems to happen near here.
“The architecture and landscape are stunning, the food delicious and the current situation remarkable and touching. This is a place of immense spiritual and political significance — and very good falafel.”
I can’t argue with any of that.
One wonderful thing about the Walled Off Hotel — besides getting to sleep inside a piece of art — is that all the profits are pumped back into local projects in the West Bank.
The property offers beds from $70 a night in their budget room, which is outfitted with surplus items from Israeli military barracks. It is a no-frills shared accommodation that includes a locker, a personal safe, a shared bathroom and complimentary earplugs to shut out the sound of noisy sleepers.
At the other end of the spectrum, the Presidential Suite is equipped with everything a “corrupt head of state would need,” the hotel’s website says. The room includes a plunge bath able to accommodate up to four revellers, original artwork, a library, home cinema, roof garden, tiki bar and a water feature made from a bullet-riddled water tank.
Now, over the years — okay, decades — that I have travelled, I have, er, enjoyed many hotel rooms with views of walls.
At least here, the hotel offers some entertainment along with the view.